In launching Tomukun Noodle Bar, Thomas Yon wanted to replicate the kind of comfort food his parents prepared for him throughout his childhood as a second-generation Korean American. "There's nothing like that in Ann Arbor," said the 27-year-old. Yon saw the success of noodle bars in Los Angeles and New York and thought the concept — where customers can stop by for a quick, healthful noodle dish — would work well here. His instincts were right, as indicated by the big crowds on my two recent visits.

Tomukun has a stark, contemporary feel. There's a dark brown counter that runs the width of the restaurant, as well as an equally long row of tables, in matching dark colors, that back up to a wall. You're close to your dining parties; this bustling, fast-paced space is not the place for a quiet, romantic dinner.

Tomukun's menu is separated into categories: udon, soba, ramen, pho and rice. The lunch and dinner menus are identical.

I found the appetizers to be generally the heartiest part of our meal. The Asian BBQ wings, tiny pieces of chicken on the bone, had a slightly spicy, tangy sauce and were cooked perfectly. I also liked the dumplings. The fresh summer roll was a healthful offering, with crisp, fresh vegetables wrapped in rice paper, but it lacked flavor or substance.

We sampled all of the noodle categories on our first visit. Most of the dishes here are served in a broth and tasted relatively similar to each other, with just a slight variation in seasoning. The addition of duck in my udon lent a nice flavor. In the hiyashi tempura soba, vegetable tempura, slightly cold and greasy, was served as an accompaniment to the big bowl of broth. All of the soups were quite good, with a comforting taste, and smooth, slithery noodles. The bibimbop was extremely basic, just plain rice with some spinach. I prefer the heartier versions that also contain bean sprouts and other vegetables.

On my second visit, the dishes I ordered were heartier, more flavorful and provided some variety. The Tomukun pork buns were fantastic, containing perfectly cooked, thick pieces of pork, bathed in a sweet sauce, surrounded by fresh vegetables on a soft bun. My vegetarian dining companion ordered the curry rice without steak or shrimp. (Any item on the menu with an asterisk can be prepared vegetarian.) Curry added a perfect seasoning to the sauce, which had a gravy consistency, though it was not spicy, as advertised, which is fine for my palate. This dish was one of my favorites, as was the jajangmyun, noodles the texture of spaghetti served in a sweet Korean black bean sauce with small pieces of pork and vegetables. This came in an enormous white bowl, with enough for an ample leftover portion.

The service here was fantastic. Everything was delivered at rapid-fire speed, by especially cheery servers. Having only been open since April, management clearly has already mastered this element.

I appreciated the high-quality ingredients, especially the abundance of fresh vegetables, at Tomukun. The majority of the dishes, though, are best suited to a light, healthful meal. Tomukun didn't satisfy my hungry dining companions' desires for a hearty, substantial dinner. This cuisine, while solid and generally tasty, is simple and not expansive. If this is what you're craving: noodle dishes, served promptly in a fun atmosphere, you won't be disappointed.

Julie Halpert reviews restaurants for AnnArbor.com.