"Top Chef" episode 2: Eve and the ladies battle the boys in a his-hers party catering challenge
Note: Contains spoiler info. Missed the show? More "Top Chef" air times.
Last time on "Top Chef": Seventeen chefs converged in Las Vegas, where they did battle via a Mise en place relay quickfire and an elimination challenge of creating a dish inspired by vice. Our heroine, Ann Arbor-based chef and restaurant proprietor Eve Aronoff, struggled in an unfamiliar kitchen and overthought her entree of seafood in curry cream sauce, finding herself on the chopping block. Fortunately, the judges gave her a second chance.
Back at the "Top Chef" house, Eve interviews that having been in the bottom four she feels torn, wondering whether she should cook things she thinks the judges will like or go all out and cook her style of food. Meanwhile, the Voltaggio brothers' rivalry continues. Bryan acknowledges that this additional level of competition pushes them to work harder and will continue to be a factor in he and Michael's performances.
Taking the guest seat at the judges' table this week is Todd English, James Beard Award-winning chef and prolific restaurateur (probably best known for his gourmet pizzeria chain Figs, and the recently-shuttered rustic Mediterranean establishment Olives). Once the host of public television show "Cooking With Todd English," he can offer some perspective about being in front of the camera as a side dish to culinary critique.
Quickfire time. In addition to Padma and Todd, the cheftestants are joined in the kitchen by... a craps table. Why? Because for this QF, each chef will roll the dice to determine how many ingredients they may use in their dish. Salt, pepper and oil don't count toward the total. With 30 minutes to cook and another $15,000 at stake in addition to the standard immunity, the chefs who roll lower numbers will have to work even harder for the win — or, as Jesse eloquently put it, "Two ingredients would suck!" On the other hand, everyone wins when we get to see Todd get caught up in the casino-like excitement. At the craps table, Eve rolls an 8 and opts to make a grilled asparagus salad with blue cheese, explaining that she likes assertive flavors and hopes that Padma and Todd will be impressed.Eve presents her salad, rounded out with golden raisins and pine nuts. The judges — ever stone-faced during this portion of the program — reveal very little, with Todd simply saying, "Interesting."Todd chooses his least favorites: Jesse's scallops with chimichurri, smashed chickpeas and toasted garlic lacked a variety of texture; Bryan's poached cod with carrot-ginger puree and daikon sprout was basically good but a little heavy on yuzu (pun alert: He "yuz"ed a little too much yuzu); and Eve's salad was overpowered by the blue cheese and a bit sloppy on the plate.
Conversely, Todd's favorites: Michael V's liquid nitrogen-treated gazpacho with compressed cucumber and toast was an inventive take on a classic; (last week's quickfire winner) Jennifer's salmon with an emulsion of lemon, garlic, shallot, parsley and jalapeño delicately blended powerful flavors; and (last week's elimination challenge winner) Kevin's asparagus-celery salad with fennel cream and a boiled egg carefully balanced the many other components of the dish and topped it off with a perfectly-cooked egg. The winner: Michael V. Smell something burning? Not quite; that's brother Bryan seething with envy.
For the elimination challenge, the chefs are divided by sexes, teaming up to cater a poolside bachelor and bachelorette party. Each male chef prepares a dish for the bachelorette; each woman for the bachelor. Whichever team is least successful will be up for elimination. This also provides the male chefs a chance to reinforce the less-than-friendly attitudes towards women they've put out thus far, as Hector comments that he thinks his female counterparts are less experienced. Conversely, Jennifer states that she's "pissed off;" whether a chef is a man or woman has no bearing on their culinary aptitude. Ashley isn't pleased, either, but for a different reason: as a lesbian, the idea of catering a wedding doesn't appeal to her because she's waiting for the day that all people can marry, regardless of sexual orientation. This isn't the place for my commentary on the subject, but I must say I respect that opinion. Fortunately Robin, a U-M grad now based in Seattle and gold chip-to-immunity winner last quickfire, is happy to be working with the women since they haven't had much time together in the kitchen so far.
Anyway, the cheftestants are joined by the couple, Karen and Greg. They bring along a tray of shots: mosco mule (sort of a gingery vodka taste), tequila and golden delicious (which Ash [not to be confused with Ashley] describes as "sweet, gooey and disgusting"). Adding another layer to the challenge, the teams must prepare at least two dishes to complement each of the beverages. With ten minutes to talk to their respective clients, the chefs take notes. The only meat Karen eats is seafood, but her friends range from run-of-the-mill omnivores to vegan. On the women's side, Eve learns from Greg that he likes seafood and lean meats but also has a sweet tooth. All in all, a lot of factors to consider — "Top Chef" wouldn't have it any other way.
After picking up groceries, Jesse interviews that after being in the bottom so much that she fears she's going into the elimination challenge with a target on her back. On the men's side, Michael V, fresh from his quickfire win, is not happy to rest on his laurels because he thinks he has more room to grow professionally than brother Bryan, who already owns a restaurant. The women finish their cooking in the allotted time without incident, while the men scramble to wrap up. But back at the house some of the women continue to be frustrated about the nature of the challenge.
A new day, the cheftestants head to the hotel where the party is taking place, complete with a shimmering, sprawling pool and large cabanas. They have another hour to set up and put finishing touches on their food. Eve prepares a shrimp ceviche with smoked tomato salsa and popcorn; Robin a duck molé with cocoa nibs and apricot; Laurine a Moroccan lamb chop with pomegranate-pine nut relish; Jennifer an octopus ceviche with citrus vinaigrette and herbs. Eve finds herself in a similar situation as last week with the shrimp lacking flavor, this time because they don't seem to be absorbing their vinaigrette. In the battle of ceviche, it's a repeat of last week's quickfire as the judges prefer Jennifer's. The men's menu, to name a few: Ron's lobster cocktail with habanero-tomato sauce; Mike I's arctic char with smoked caper sauce and orange; Kevin's chilled almond soup with king crab, cucumber and grape; Mattin's boullabaise with aioli crouton and basque cheese croquette; Ash's chicken wing with pickled pearl onions.Before going to the judges' table, during the commercial break we're treated to some bonus footage. This week, it's Mike I talking about the nicknames he's come up with for his competitors. Most notably, he calls Eve "The Ninja," explaining that Eve says she has ninja-like skills but actually she walks into walls. It's a nice look into what things are like outside of the competion side of the show.
At the judges' table, the men's team prevails. The top four: Hector, who offered tofu ceviche with citrus and a fresh tortilla; Bryan, with a guacamole, corn nut and corn puree-filled sweet and sour macaroon; Michael V, with apple sorbet and a goat cheese cookie; and Eli, with tuna tartare and wild rice. Yep, the Voltaggio brothers are vying for the number one spot just as each hoped. Eli's tartare is praised for its seasoning, while Michael's dessert gets it right from concept to execution, and Hector gets kudos for bringing bold flavor to face-value bland tofu. Todd explains that it comes down to the siblings, and as if the fates wanted to even things out after the quickfire, Bryan's macaroon had the texture and playfulness to become the week's winning dish. Next, the four least-liked dishes by the women's team are on the chopping block. It's Jesse's Thai chicken in a lettuce cup with mushrooms, shiso and ginger beer; Preeti's coriander-sesame tuna with spicy eggplant and crispy wonton; Ashley two dishes of watermelon carpaccio with ricotta salata and aged balsamic, and a bay leaf panna cotta with cranberry powder and honey; and Eve's shrimp ceviche. Jesse, whose too-dry chicken landed her in the bottom last week, delivered too-watery poultry this time around. Preeti's tuna was described as over-cured, with the shiso too wilted, and the eggplant seeming out of place. Ashley's watermelon dish was well-liked, but her un-set panna cotta put off the judges. When the judges approach Eve, she acknowledges that she didn't love how the shrimp turned out, and the judges agree: the seafood was bland, and the salsa overpowered it. She explains that when she realized the vinaigrette wasn't taking she tried to boost the flavor but it was too late, like trying to salt pasta that's already cooked. The judges deliberate. Ashley is reminded that she should've focused on making one great dish rather than letting a second drag her down. Tom thinks Preeti lacked the skill to make her tuna dish work. Jesse's dish had muddled flavors and was sloppily presented. And the judges struggled to decipher the different flavors in Eve's dish, saying this fact was even worsened as she added more ingredients. Then, sadly, Eve is asked to pack her knives and go.Eve thanks the judges for the experience. In her exit interview she says that while she hasn't won, it doesn't change how she feels about herself or her cooking. She continues, explaining that she felt out of place in the context of "Top Chef" and thinks her flavor profiles may not have made sense to the judges. Her fellow cheftestants give her a round of applause and via voiceover she talks about going home and being herself, learning and creating something special. Her commentary makes a lot of sense; truly she was being herself, but her self — her personality and attitude — were simply not a good fit for the "Top Chef" setting, where time constraints are tight, pressure is high, and your opposition is hungry to win. Eve seemed to come to the show just wanting to cook and work alongside her peers — a fine philosophy for a chef's life, but not for a chef's competition. As for creating something special? If that was a contest, with the thousands of customers who have loved the offerings at her restaurant, Eve's already won.
For more "Top Chef" coverage, on Thursday morning tune in to 1290 WLBY AM on the radio or online, where I'll be a guest at 10:05 on the Lucy Ann Lance Business Insider. If you can't listen live, the interview will be archived at her site on Friday.
Chrysta Cherrie is the entertainment producer/copy editor for AnnArbor.com. Reach her at chrystacherrie@annarbor.com or 734-623-2526, and follow her on Twitter @chrystacherrie.
Comments
chef's girl
Sat, Aug 29, 2009 : 9:04 p.m.
I'm so embarassed for Eve. How humiliating was that. I've eaten at her restaurant a few times for lunch and for dinner. I've had a few problems: The service was S L O W on all ocassions--I'm a patient person, but this was ridiculous; as far as I can tell, the menu has been the same for the last two years. How can you consider yourself a notch above when you don't experiment and present seasonal changes?; and Eve has her dog in the kitchen. I love animals, but a dog in a restaurant kitchen!
jrbaker
Fri, Aug 28, 2009 : 9:27 a.m.
First, I agree that there must be a significant difference between cooking in your own kitchen and competing in the Top Chef kitchen. Case in point is that some of the master chefs eliminated in Top Chef Masters had food that failed more dramatically than did the food of Eve. Secondly, if Eve's food is as good as many of us know it to be, then what does that say aobut the food of the chefs that win the various Top Chef challenges?!
Peggy Lampman
Fri, Aug 28, 2009 : 7:25 a.m.
I have always loved the restaurant, especially the complexity of the flavor profiles in her offerings. It surprises me this culinary signature was not reflected in the show. Who knows what goes on backstage at Top Chef! She was, frankly, quite brave to enter that lion's den. Welcome back to town, Eve. We love you! (BTW: Check out her stunning cookbook)
Chrysta Cherrie
Thu, Aug 27, 2009 : 9:13 p.m.
BobbyJohn, thanks for sharing. To clarify, my position with AnnArbor.com is producer/copy editor, though I have some journalism background and I post entries in Entertainment throughout the week (probably half the time about topics that interest me that I think readers might not hear about otherwise, and half the time about topics passed to me by coworkers or submitted by readers/events promoters/reps from venues, arts orgs, etc). The TC recaps shouldn't be regarded as news items, but rather as a supplement to (or substitute for) watching the show, and they are most certainly slanted. AnnArbor.com staff are focused on posting content about Washtenaw County; had there not been a locally-based chef participating on "Top Chef," we wouldn't have covered it. But since a local chef was involved, we covered the show and put an emphasis on her (and though Eve's been eliminated, we'll continue the coverage, but in less detail). One of our community bloggers might have opted to cover the show regardless (for example, fashion blogger Kelly Tinsley recently wrote about the Project Runway season premiere, which has no local ties), but that's a different situation. Similarly, if there was a special episode of a TV show that featured or prominently mentioned the area, we'd post about that, too. (Also, for comprehensive TV recaps with a touch of snark, I recommend Television Without Pity. They post short "recaplets" soon after various shows' episodes premiere [including "Top Chef"], and then super-detailed ones about a week later.) I hope that clears up where we're coming from, and I hope you'll continue to contribute to the conversation on AnnArbor.com. Feel free to contact me, chrystacherrie@annarbor.com, if you have any questions or comments that don't relate to this post or if you'd just like to get in touch offsite.
BobbyJohn
Thu, Aug 27, 2009 : 5:48 p.m.
Chrysta I have to say that I feel you come across too much as a hometowner. You are not a blogger, but a journalist (are you not?). Journalists are objective. Even if you like Eve, I like to read articles that tell the story without being so slanted
a2miguy
Thu, Aug 27, 2009 : 2:10 p.m.
Man. I was sure pulling for Eve. I've not been to her restaurant, though I've walked by there 1000 times (that little courtyard in K'town is such a nice spot to just sit down and relax for a bit). I've always been intrigued, though, and I will get there eventually. There are definitely some things on her menu that I'd like to try. As for her performance on Top Chef... I find it odd that in Week 2, she chose to make another shrimp dish. Her Week 1 shrimp dish looked terrible, and as much as it made me cringe and squirm to watch it, she was ripped apart for it by the judges and rightly so. Anyway... wouldn't it have been better to avoid shrimp for a couple weeks? I'm sure I will still go to Eve, the restaurant. I've read a ton of reviews, and the good reviews outweigh the bad by a mile. But I'll probably avoid any shrimp dishes on the menu.
Liz
Thu, Aug 27, 2009 : 10:04 a.m.
I wish you guys wouldn't post spoilers on Twitter throughout the show's airing...lots of us use DVRs nowadays and can't watch in real time, and the episode was ruined for me when I checked my feed this morning! Bummer.
Bpf
Thu, Aug 27, 2009 : 9:56 a.m.
I live downtown and have eaten at her resturant. My opinion is not that myopic.
Chrysta Cherrie
Thu, Aug 27, 2009 : 8:51 a.m.
I understand what you're saying, Bpf. I guess where we differ is that since I'm familiar with her work outside of the show I'm comparing that to her TC performance, rather than just focusing on the TC side of things. Anyway, this is minutiae and I'm glad you're in the conversation. Also, FWIW, ceviche and popcorn seems to be a good combination. It's been done successfully on TC before (most recently by Christopher Lee on TC Masters, and previously on TC [I think Richard Blais circa Chicago]) and last night the popcorn was probably the most successful component of Eve's dish. I think the combo has traditional Latin ties, but I'm no culinary scholar.
Bpf
Thu, Aug 27, 2009 : 8:24 a.m.
Lol. Should read "sweetest."
Bpf
Thu, Aug 27, 2009 : 8:22 a.m.
"There's been some less-than supportive commentary about Eve in light of her TC performance. I hope those people can reconsider the differences between cooking on a game show and cooking in actual life, and judge Eve's cooking by the same standard (trying it in her restaurant, not being armchair critic of food they can't even try)." I'll admit to being one of the people that commented on Eve's appearance on TC last week. And yes, it was "less than supportive" but it was brutally honest, and in light of her performance on the show, correct. I simply stated what it is that the author of this column is now writing herself, that Eve may be a great chef, but she is not a contestant. Let's not fluff her simply because her resturant is in A2. It's insulting to the readers and, maybe more impotantly, it's insulting to Eve. Her choices on the show ranged from questionable to terrible. And not admitting that because it may not be the sweatest thing to say does a disservice to us all, and again, most importantly Eve. I'm glad that Eve can now focus on her restuarant and get back to what's important to her. And here's to hoping she never puts popcorn in my ceviche.
Chrysta Cherrie
Thu, Aug 27, 2009 : 7:58 a.m.
Jennifer and Marge, thank you for better articulating what I was trying to convey at the end of the recap. Rodney and AATaxpayer, thanks for sharing your good words about Eve/the restaurant, too. Also, how do I (and even, should I?) address this: There's been some less-than supportive commentary about Eve in light of her TC performance. I hope those people can reconsider the differences between cooking on a game show and cooking in actual life, and judge Eve's cooking by the same standard (trying it in her restaurant, not being armchair critic of food they can't even try).
letsgoblue
Thu, Aug 27, 2009 : 7:52 a.m.
So, maybe I'm in the minority here, but I've never had a great meal at Eve. I WANT to. I love the place itself and its concept and I want to support a business like that. It's always fallen short for both me and my husband. I've never watched Top Chef before, but I tuned in with full support really wanting Eve to do well. But, after those two episode, I feel like - Yep - not that great of a place. Am I ordering the wrong things? Am I not appreciating a style? I WANT to. Help me out!
Trevor Staples
Thu, Aug 27, 2009 : 7:46 a.m.
Top Chef is a good game show, but it's hard to believe that cooking things super-fast with limited ingredients is what makes a great chef. Eve is obviously a great chef. Having said that, I have to say that as someone who likes to cook, it gives me a bit of guilty pleasure watching people get ripped apart for their bad creations. Todd English was a bit too harsh though. I liked Wolfgang Puck's more entertaining style when exclaiming how bad the food was. I haven't been to Eve The Restaurant yet, but have only heard great things about it. Watching this show just made me want to make sure I check it out sooner than later.
susan
Thu, Aug 27, 2009 : 7:44 a.m.
Eve is way too classy for a reality show like Top Chef. From a sheer marketing perspective, it potentially gave her more exposure, but the pressure had to be super stressful. It was stressful to watch! Thank God it is over and our wonderful Eve can do what she does so well, feeding Ann Arbor with elegance and style. xxoo
aataxpayer
Thu, Aug 27, 2009 : 7:27 a.m.
I had dinner at Eve's last night. It was the best I've had in a long time. The wine, drink, meal, service... everything was great. Thank you for making Ann Arbor your home.
Marge Biancke
Thu, Aug 27, 2009 : 6:59 a.m.
The Top Chef environment wasn't made for Eve's elegant style. She is a real winner at Kerrytown in her own kichen.
Jennifer Shikes Haines
Thu, Aug 27, 2009 : 6:23 a.m.
I think Eve's ability to cook beautifully in her own style has been demonstrated the enormous success of her restaurant and her fan base, which includes chefs like Mario Batali and the James Beard Foundation. Bah on Top Chef!