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Posted on Thu, Sep 24, 2009 : 12:45 a.m.

"Top Chef" episode 6: Hoping to make magic in the kitchen

By Chrysta Cherrie

Note: Contains spoiler info. Missed the show? More "Top Chef" air times.

Last time on "Top Chef": The 12 remaining cheftestants saddled up for quickfire and elimination challenges inspired by cowboy life. First, guest judge Tim Love challenged the chefs to make their best cactus-centric dish, and Mike's cactus-tuna ceviche with pipián landed him in the top spot, complete with a $15,000 bonus. For the elimination challenge, the participants rustled up a high-end lunch for a dozen cowboys, cooking out on a ranch and working with a limited set of tools. In the end, Bryan V took his third elimination challenge win with a roasted pork loin, corn polenta, dandelion greens and glazed rutabaga. On the other end, Mattin's ceviche three ways (salmon with apple, spicy tuna, cod with corn) led to him hitting the dusty trail.

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Guest judge Michelle Bernstein and "Top Chef" host Padma Lakshmi introduce the quickfire, in which the chefs prepare two tastings to represent their personal angel and devil.

Miami-based chef and restaurateur Michelle Bernstein, a James Beard Award winner known for her approachable but high-end Latin cuisine (and known for surprises, from besting Bobby Flay in an episode of "Iron Chef America" to bowling over "Top Chef" season 2 hopefuls with a quickfire featuring offal), was the guest judge this week. The quickfire, recalling the sinful nature of Las Vegas (and the season's vice-oriented first quickfire), found the chefs preparing a duo of dishes that reflected their personal angel and devil, with immunity awarded to the chef behind the winning dish.

Michelle and Padma were least impressed with Ash's runny asparagus custard paired with a too-spicy pink peppercorn shortbread; Bryan V's poorly-executed frozen coconut, lychee and vanilla alongside a dark chocolate mousse; and Laurine's uninspired chicken-vegetable consommé. At the top were Eli's tasty scallops, with radish top pesto and brown butter risotto, as well as Michael V's perfectly-executed rillettes of salmon against a confit of salmon and ice cream. But an unlikely winner arose, given past performances, as Robin won for the delicious contrast between her arugula-apple-fennel salad and cardamom-ginger apple crisp. Inspired by surviving cancer, some chefs felt it was a sympathy win, but Michelle's glowing critique rang clearly.

Penn & Teller deconstruct a magic trick as a prelude to the deconstruction-oriented elimination challenge.

To introduce the elimination challenge, illusionist duo Penn & Teller performed one of their famous how-it's-done magic tricks, as the cheftestants learned that they'd be doing some deconstruction of their own in the kitchen. Each drew a knife to determine which beloved dish they'd be tackling:
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Quickfire winner Robin Leventhal works on a deconstructed New England clam chowder for the elimination challenge.

• Ash: shepherd's pie • Ashley: pot roast • Bryan V: reuben • Eli: sweet & sour pork • Jennifer: meat lasagna • Kevin: chicken mole negro • Laurine: fish & chips • Michael V: caesar salad • Mike: eggs florentine • Robin: New England clam chowder • Ron: paella

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Kevin Gillespie prepares his elimination challenge dish, deconstructed chicken mole negro.

This episode marked the return of guest Toby Young, British journalist and food critic known for his snarky commentary (more Joel McHale and less Simon Cowell, if you ask me). He and his fellow diners most enjoyed Ashley's seared strip loin with potato purée, crispy shallots and celery salad, helping to convert Michelle to become a pot roast fan; Jennifer's steak with mascarpone bechamel, tomato sauce and parmesan chip, a dish confident in its simplicity; and Michael V's chicken wing with parmesan jelly and brioche, exciting Tom with the innovative use of chemicals for the jelly. But Kevin landed his second elimination challenge win — a triumph after his mole-related trouble last week — with his chicken croquette, Mexican coffee-fig jam and pumpkin seed romesco, finding the balance among the dish's many components.

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Guest judge Michelle Bernstein, "Top Chef" host Padma Lakshmi, head judge Tom Colicchio and recently-returned judge Toby Young listen as the chefs discuss their elimination challenge dishes.

Ash found himself in the bottom for the second time this episode, for his lambchop with leek, glazed carrots, pea purée and madeira jus, called out for lack of potato, inconsistently-prepared meat and generally not tasting like shepherd's pie; as did Laurine, whose halibut with zucchini relish, tomato confit and parsley chips fell short in the "chips" department and was deconstructed to the point that it was difficult to eat. Also having deconstruction problems — in this case, too structured — was Ron, whose seafood paella with lemon-herb oil, chayote and peas was bogged down by mushy rice and overcooked seafood, and in the end he was eliminated.

Once again, this season is feeling like a countdown to Jennifer, Kevin and Bryan/Michael V in the final four. The only variable seems to be Ashley, who recovered from a couple of difficult rounds by preparing dishes in contention for the win for two weeks in a row. Also, is it Restaurant Wars time yet?

Chrysta Cherrie is the entertainment producer/copy editor for AnnArbor.com. Reach her at chrystacherrie@annarbor.com or 734-623-2526, and follow her on Twitter @chrystacherrie.