Today, this last day of September, the vestiges of a bountiful summer harvest are disappearing, making room for the gourds and cabbages of fall. But now, before the curtain falls, we pause to applaud September's grand finalé: the swan song of the tomato.

Tomatoes, in a chorus of greens, yellows and blushing pinks, are still ripening on backyard vines. Beautiful yet vulnerable, an overnight frost could kill them so I check the weather forecast each evening. If a frost warning is advised, I could, perhaps, cover them. But more than likely I will pick them all, each degree of ripeness delicious at its unique level of maturity. 

Green tomatoes have, surprisingly, as many cooking applications as those fully ripened. Their tangy, tart flavors are marvelous fried and grilled, made into sauces or salsas, or bottled up and preserved into green tomato chutney, which can be savored through the winter.

They may also be ripened indoors. To expedite the process, one trick is placing them in a box, paper or plastic bag with a ripe apple or banana, then storing them, covered, in a cool, dry environment.  According to the website wikihow.com, the ripe fruit emits natural ethylene gas, a ripening agent for tomatoes.

My green tomatoes did ripen quicker when I included a banana in the bag. However, "quicker", in my case, meant 3 weeks instead of 4.

In the following recipe, I use tomatoes that are ripe but slightly firm. Any leftover cheese bits needing to be used could be substituted for the goat cheese - I'm thinking feta, ricotta, or softened blue cheese would be delicious.

 I don't cook the tomatoes long, just enough to blister the skin and warm the cheese; the tart and sweet juices of the freshly picked tomatoes are intensified, yet the interior flesh is barely cooked.  A wonderful vegetarian dinner served with fresh baked bread, stuffed tomatoes are also a fine accompaniment to a grilled steak.

The texture of toasted pine nuts is a pleasant contrast with the rich, creamy cheese; however, chopped pecans or walnuts would be fine stand-ins.

My two largest tomatoes take their last bow to a standing ovation, in their final performance of the season.

Yield: 2 large stuffed tomatoes

Time: 25 minutes

Cost: apx. $10.00

Ingredients

2 to 3 large tomatoes
1 tablespoon pine nuts
6 tablespoons goat cheese, room temperature
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 teaspoons minced garlic
1/3 cup panko or other coarse bread crumbs
1/2 cup torn basil

Directions

1. Preheat oven to 450 degrees.
2. If necessary, slice a paper thin layer off bottoms of tomatoes so they will stand upright. Wash and core tomatoes, and, with a melon baller or spoon, carve them out, leaving a 3/4- inch shell from bottom and sides. (Do not remove too much pulp or tomato will collapse when baked.) Season inside of each tomato with kosher salt and freshly ground pepper.
3. Toast pine nuts until golden brown, then combine nuts with softened goat cheese. Divide and stuff goat cheese mixture into tomatoes, lightly pressing into bottom of shell.
4. In a medium-sized sauté pan, heat oil over medium heat. Add garlic and cook, stirring, for 30 seconds. Stir in bread crumbs, and sauté 3-4 minutes or until just beginning to toast. Turn off heat and stir in basil. Divide and mound bread crumb mixture over cheese mixture in tomatoes.
5. Transfer tomatoes to a lightly oiled, foil lined baking sheet. Bake, on middle rack of oven. until they are slightly blistered and the tops are golden, 5-10 minutes.